Temples of Udipi

 

Udupi is one of the seven Mokshapuris highly revered in the land of Parasurama. The sacred idol of Lord Balagopala installed by Sri Madhwacharya (1238-1317 AD) was originally worshipped by Devi Rukmini in Dwaraka in the Dwapara Yuga.

The advent of Lord Krishna to this divine land is dramatic. Long ago, once when Sri Madhwa was meditating near the Malpe Beach (5 km from Udupi), he saw a ship in danger due to severe storm. He saved the ship by his yogic power. As the Swamiji knew beforehand that the ship carried the idols of Krishna and Balarama, he accepted Gopi Chandana pieces that the ship's captain offered. He installed the Balarama idol in Vada Pandeshwara village near the shores and the Krishna idol at Udupi near the Chandramouleeswara shrine.

The idol of Krishna holding the churning rod in one hand and the rope in the other with a smile on his lips envisages the childhood pranks of the Lord in His Gokul days. Krishna is believed to have asked Viswakarma to make this idol for Rukmini, who adored it till the end of Krishna avatar. Arjuna had later hidden the image in the gardens of Dwaraka. It reached Udupi in course of time along with Gopi Chandana.

In ancient times, Udupi was known as Sivalli and Rajathapeetapuram. According to a legend, Chandra, the Moon God, who did penance in a forest here, was redeemed from the curse by Daksha Prajapati. In Sanskrit, Udu means star and Pa means leader. As Chandra was the head of the stars, the place came to be known as Udupi. Lord Siva is worshipped as Chandramouleeswara. The shrine opposite to Krishna temple enshrines the Swayambu Lingam. The Lingam changes colour thrice during the day - black in the morning, blue at noon and white at night. The temple tank is known as Chandra Pushkarni or Madhwa Sarovar.

There is another shrine for Lord Ananteswara. When Parasurama redeemed the land from sea, he crowned his devotee Ramabhoja as a king of this land. He performed Ashwamedha Yaga on this holy soil. While ploughing the land prior to the Yaga, he killed a snake accidentally. To redeem himself from Sarpa dosha, he made a silver peetam (Rajatha Peetam) with images of snake carved on it. Hence the name of the place Sivalli or Siva-belli. In the sanctum, Parasurama is worshipped in Linga swaroopa on this silver peetam as Ananteswara. There is a 40-foot-high Deepa sthamba outside the shrine.

Eight Mutts: Udupi is the seat of Vaishnavite Bhakti cult. The Dwaita Siddhanta of Sri Madhwa is propagated as a glorious tradition by the eight mutts established by the Guru at Udupi. The mutts are Palimar Mutt, Krishnapura Mutt, Sothe Mutt, Puthige Mutt, Sirur Mutt, Kaniyur Mutt, Admar Mutt and Pejawar Mutt. The heads of these mutts take full responsibility of the various pujas and rituals of Sri Krishna temple. Only Bala Sanyasis are selected to head the mutts and do pujas at the temple.

Paryaya festival: Each of the eight mutts is given a two-year term by turns in service of Lord Krishna. The Paryaya festival, the most important one in the temple, is held once in two years around January, when there is a ceremonial change of the head priest, called the Paryaya Swamiji.

Navagraha Kindi (or window): A unique feature of Sri Udupi Krishna temple is that the Lord is worshipped only through a window with nine holes. It is fully silver-plated and carved exquisitely. Situated to the west of this is the Kanakadasa Mandap. When Kanakadasa came to this village, he could not enter the Krishna shrine because he belonged to a low caste. He continued to worship the Lord, standing outside and singing His glory. One day, to the surprise of all, the western wall gave way on its own and the Lord's image turned towards this opening. Kanakadasa had the special privilege of worshipping Sri Krishna in full view. Since then, the tradition here has been to worship the Lord only through the window. From this window outside, one can any time have a good darshan of the Lord.

Pujas & rituals: The day at Udupi temple begins at 4 a.m. to the accompaniment of conch and Nagari sounds and Vedic chants. A series of pujas and abhishekas are performed to the Lord. The Nirmalya Visarjan is followed by Ushatkala puja, Panchamirtha puja, Udhwardhana puja, Kalasa puja, Go (cow) puja, Alankara puja and Maha puja. These are followed by Brindavana puja. Devotees are then fed.
Evening pujas start at 4.30 p.m. These include Samara Seva, Ranga Seva and Seevili Seva. The deity is then kept on a silver palanquin and taken in a procession round the sanctum. This is known as Ekanta puja, when the Lord is kept on a silver bed.

Chenna Kesava shrine: This shrine is situated behind the sanctum. Here, the Lord is seen with Shanku, Chakra, Gadha and Lotus on His hands, as He gave darshan to Kanakadasa. Behind this is the eastern entrance of the sanctum, which is open only on Vijayadasami day. On the prakaras, there are images of Garudalwar and Hanuman. The two prakaras, Suryachala and Chandrachala, are used for cultural and religious purposes. A Tulasi Brindavanam, situated near the Dwajasthamba, is held in high reverence. A 12-day festival is held during Nov-Dec.

Sri Madhwa shrine: The shrine of the founder of Udupi temple is situated next to the sanctum. There are images of Sri Vadiraja and Lord Subramanya on the outer prakara. The silver Simhasana, used by Sri Madhwa, is held very sacred. Only the Paryaya Swamiji will be seated on this while blessing the devotees.

Madhwa Sarovar: The holy Ganga is said to appear in this tank once in 12 years.

Festivals:

During January, a seven-day grand festival, known as Saptotsava, is celebrated. These include daily car and float festivals. On Makara Sankranti day, three Rathas carrying the images of Krishna, Chandramouleeswara and Ananteswara are taken out in processions.

The seventh day car is known as Brahma Ratham, when all idols are kept near the Krishna image and all the eight Matathipathis perform pujas and the ritual of Aarattu (holy dip of the images) in Madhwa Sarovar. Golden flowers are showered on the idol of Sri Krishna. This is known as Swarnotsavam. The practice of arranging timber in the form of enchanting chariots is peculiar to Udupi.

The other festivals include Laksha Deepa, Tulasi Puja, Madhwa Navami, Navaratri, Deepavali, Krishna Janmashtami and Sri Ramanavami.

Shakti & Subramanya temples: King Ramabhoja established four Shakti temples and four Subramanya temples in the four corners of Sivalli. The Shakti temples are at Puttur, Kannarpadi, Bailur and Kadiyali. The Subramanya temples are at Tangodu, Mangodu, Aritodu and Muchilkodu.

Durga shrine: There is a shrine dedicated to Durga on a hillock some 5 km from Udupi. Indra's consort Shashidevi is believed to have performed penance here.

Bhaajaga Kshetra: This is the birthplace of Sri Madhwacharya, situated 12 km from Udupi. Sri Madhwa is also considered a reincarnation of Hanuman. There are shrines for Bheema, Pancha Pandavas and Vayu.

Access:

Mangalore 60 km; Kollur 88 km

Subramanya: The Lord Subramanya temple is situated in picturesque surroundings. The sacred hill is known as Kumara Parvat and rivers Kumaradhara and Tharpana originate here. In the sanctum, Lord Shanmukha is seated on a peacock. Images of Vasuki and Adi Sesha are installed below the Lord. The sanctum is full of ant-hills. A Garuda sthamba, installed in front of the sanctum, is believed to ward off the poisonous breath of Nagas.

There are shrines dedicated to Lord Uma Maheswara and Kukke Lingam (basket). According to a legend, a basket full of Lingams was once found here, which gives this place the name of Kukke Subramanya.

Vyasa Sampuda Narasimha Sannadhi: There is a Narasimha shrine of great importance in this temple. Images of Vittal, Rukmini, Lakshmi Narasimha and a box with Saligramams are worshipped. The Saligramams are said to have been given by sage Vyasa to Madhwacharya, who gave them to his disciples. The box is always kept closed. There is a Madhwa mutt in the shrine.

Legend says that Garuda was once chasing Vasuki, the Naga king, who took shelter in a cave. Lord Subramanya gave protection to Vasuki. It is said that even today, Garuda is never seen in this place except during the Car Festival, when the divine bird is seen circling the car thrice.

Adi Subramanya shrine: This ancient shrine is on the other side of river Tharpana. The Lord is said to have done penance to get rid of the sin of Brahmahatti (annihilation of Tharakasura). Lord Subramanya is worshipped in an ant-hill and mirrors and idols of Naga are offered.

Festivals:

Shashti, Vaisaka and Narasimha Jayanti are major festivals. Naga Shanti and Sarpa puja are special offerings in the temple.

Access:

Mangalore 103 km; Hassan 97 km; Dharmasthala 40 km. Subramanya can be reached from Dharmasthala via Uppinangadi.